On our fourth (or fifth) day in Bali, Surya took us to see a traditional healer, a thin old man in his 80's with a bright smile. Surya is studying with him and was able to translate and explain some of what he was doing, though I think you could undergo years of study and still not understand it. We went in two groups, five on one day and five on the next. I went the second day. We had to wear sarongs and dress respectfully, as we would to go to a temple. He works in a little open-air building inside his family compound.
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| The family temple in Cakorda Rai's family compound |
He was working with an Australian farmer when we showed up, and she had an awful time letting go of her moment in the sun with him. She kept talking to him and coming back after she left.
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| Cakorda Rai working with an Australian woman before he worked with us. |
Surya told us a little about Cakorda Rai while we waited. He used to be a car mechanic and then had a series of illnesses, visions and dreams that told him he was to be a healer, and that he would get help from a leaf. The leaf turned out to be the palm leaves of the lontar books, on which all kinds of ancient healing information has been written. We got our first glimpse of such a book.
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| Lontar healing book. Looks to me like it is written in Elvish. |
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Surya showing us how a lontar book is written--
by holding a knife and moving the page--not his hand! |
When it was our turn we went up one at a time and sat on the floor in front of Cakorda Rai's chair. He felt each person's head and neck, pressing all over.
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| Diagnosing Kristi, by feeling her head and neck. |
Then we lay down on the floor and he pushed a spot, or several spots, on our toes, with a little wooden stick. Based on what he learned from our scalp, neck, and how we yelled when he pressed on our toes, he then did some intervention, which varied from person to person. He used mudras (hand motions), traced on our bodies with his little stick, and/or recited some healing words. Sometimes Surya helped him with the mudras or the words. Anne Allen got a Sharpie design written on her torso, very elaborate! He told her she could look at it in the mirror but not take a picture of it.
Finally he pressed again with his stick on the same places on our toes, and this time it didn't hurt.
When it was my turn he didn't find anything the matter with the spots on my scalp and head, so he asked me what he could do for me. I said I would like help with "clear vision"--internal vision. He pushed a spot on my toe and I yelled! Surya smiled and said, "That's the spot." Later he told me that the spot is called "Memory." Then Cakorda Rai traced me lightly with his stick, and the two of them said a few words. He pressed again with his stick on my memory button, no pain this time, and I was done.
Surya told me it was as if my memory card was too full, or as if I had a mirror that was a bit foggy, and they had cleared it. I think that this is the sort of healing that takes a while to play out, and I will not know right away what effect this has had. However, a few days later I accidentally (?!) deleted all the pictures on the memory card in my camera. It was a shock! Some of those--including these pictures of the healer--were retrieved, finally. But some are gone for good. I am aware of the metaphorical dimensions of this and still watching it unfold.
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Made Surya (left) and Cakorda Rai treating Kate.
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It was a profound experience, visiting this man, for all of us (I believe). Some more than others. Anne Allen, who got the Sharpie tattoo, felt it made a huge difference to her ability to walk and participate in the trip, and reduced her pain. Cakorda Rai was humble, gentle, easily amused, and gave a sense of quiet ease. Each of our healings or treatments was quick--five to ten minutes. He works with mental and physical illnesses and Surya has many stories to tell about him. Surya is not only studying with him but wants to write a book about traditional Balinese healing. No such book exists, I gather. I can't say how grateful I feel for the opportunity to do something like this. Among many spiritual and beautiful moments in Bali, this was one of the most extraordinary.
